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Our pasta festival continued with a mound of linguine vongole , a mild tomato sauce simmered with garlic and shallots and peppered with pieces of clam.

The thin strands of fresh pasta in the linguini vongole were exquisitely tender and eggy, and completely absorbed the minimal olive oil-sauce.

Linguine vongole lacked the advertised cockles, but here, the large, plump clams were clean and perfectly cooked.

No sooner had a bowl of steaming spaghetti vongole been placed in front of me than Matt, in a moment of open-armed expansiveness while trying to press home a point, had knocked the entire thing into my lap.

I'm particularly partial to Roman delicacies such as tripe and offal, but after one particularly nasty plate of seared pig's flesh with beans, Bea decided to stick to her old favourite, spaghetti vongole .